Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

Skinny-Dipping in Olango

March 18, 2010


Long before March came, I’d been planning to go alone somewhere secluded for my birthday. I thought of Bantayan Island, but everyone seems to be going there, so I chose Olango, an isle off Lapulapu City that has a wildlife sanctuary, for migratory birds specifically. Besides, Olango (pronounced olanggo) sounds more warm and exotic than Bantayan.

I wanted to experience bird-watching. But more than that, I was looking for a good place to go skinny-dipping. Yup, there’s an exhibitionist in me that I’ve been hiding. I once skinny-dipped in White Island in Camiguin, and I feel like I want to make it a ritual every time I travel alone. Olango turned out to be just a good place to do it. But of course, I had to find first a perfect spot and a perfect moment (whatever that means).

In the sanctuary’s office, I read from the wall that Olango Island Wildlife Sanctuary covers 920 hectares. You won’t be lost, however, in the middle of it, for there is only a small area where you can explore and watch the birds.

I simply followed a footpath leading to the water. From the edge of the beach, I followed another trail, this time made of concrete blocks and leading to an observatory about a kilometer out the sea. Each block was rectangular and was about a meter in length and a meter in height. The blocks had a space of two or three feet in between, so I had to hop lightly from one block to another, which reminded me of a PlayStation kiddie game.

Farther halfway through the blocks, I found out that the rest were lower in height and the water had reached over them.The tide was beginning to rise. It was about eleven in the morning. I thought of going back, but immediately scolded myself. I was here for a little adventure, right? So I removed my slippers and continued. My worry turned out to be silly, for the water reached only my ankles.

The heat was stinging my skin. The sun was burning bright, and the sky was almost cloudless. But the view around me was soothing to the eyes instead of glaring. For miles, laid before me were clusters of mangroves that divided the sea into shallow circular pools. The bed of white sand was visible, and it made some of the “pools” light blue and some greenish. The air was filled with silence, save of course for the chirping of birds here and now. There was no other guest that day. I had the whole place for myself.

The bird-watching part was a little funny. There wasn’t much bird in the area, for the peak season is from July to November, when birds from Siberia, Northern China, and Japan escape the winter and fly the globe downward to Australia and New Zealand. But I had researched this in the Internet beforehand, so I wasn’t disappointed at all. (I pushed through with the trip despite what I learned because it’s not like I can move my birthday to sometime in July to November.) What welcomed me in Olango was more or less what I expected.

The only birds I was able to observe were those that flew from one cluster of mangroves to another. Which meant that by the time I could peek through the binoculars, the birds would already be hidden in the shrubs. I was satisfied, though, with the few birds I spotted. The first one passed by in front me while I was walking toward the observatory. It was about twice the size of an ordinary dove and had brown wings and white chest. Its beak looked like that of an eagle, but much smaller and slimmer and, for me, more graceful. Then there was what I called “the flirt.” It was a tiny black bird with a red chest that left its group and came near the concrete hut. It circled around me a few times. It appeared so fearless and friendly that I stuck my arm out to see if it would perch on my hand, and of course it didn’t. Then there was also the flock of white birds that flew in a V-formation. They were the only ones with which I made good use of the binoculars (which came free with the P20 entrance fee). They were quite far and looked languid. I got to watch them for maybe a minute.

Half an hour into the observatory, I got bored (this is news, me getting bored in solitude). I wondered if I should have let some friends tag along. I told myself the deafening silence would make me crazy (another news). I looked below the observatory to check if I could skinny-dip there. It was the only spot protected from the rays of the sun. It was, however, littered with concrete debris and was coarse to the feet. So I decided to leave the observatory and thought of checking out the enclosed wooden hut forty-five degrees from where I was.

When I stepped on the water, I found out that the tide had gone up higher. The concrete blocks under the water now looked like a picture in a lucid dream. The current too was a little stronger. I started walking on the blocks and felt like a PlayStation character again. This time, my worry was not as silly as it was earlier. The water was knee-deep, and if I slipped and fell, I would probably be plunged to the sea up to my chest. That’s not really very scary, I know, but it sure was not the most comfortable thing do when you’re alone in the middle of nowhere.

As I waded on, I counted the blocks that were submerged in water. There were forty-three or forty-four. By the time I stepped off the last wet block, my soles were red and itchy. And from there, it was dry blocks again. I tried to continue counting, but I would often get pleasantly distracted by the sight below me. I had childlike fun looking at the tiny creatures thriving around the blocks. The black sea urchins were probably the ugliest creatures I’ve ever seen. Each urchin has a tiny red mouth and five tiny blue eyes around the mouth. Of course, “mouth” and “eyes” might not really be the right terms, but you get what I mean. I also saw some tiny fish that looked like leaves of a sea grass at first glance. I found it funny looking at them. While the fish were swimming, they looked so confident with their camouflage, as though each of them were thinking, “What a brilliant idea this is, pretending to be a leaf to trick my predator.” I wanted to tell them, “Not so fast, I found you out,” but of course I’m not their predator, so silly me left the silly fish in peace.

The path leading to the wooden hut was also concrete, but this one was natural, not man-made, with half-dead moss as finishing coat. It amazed me. I think I’d never walked on such a floor before. I used to think that beaches are always made up of sand. The walk, however, led me to nothing much fruitful. The wooden hut was locked. I peeked from a hole in the wall and the inside looked empty. The design of the windows on the other side of the hut seemed to indicate that it was another observatory. As the stilts and ladder of the hut were half-submerged in water, my balls this time were wet with saltwater (sorry, too much information).

By this time also, for no particular reason, I’d given up the idea of skinny-dipping. I decided to go back to the office in the entrance of the sanctuary. It was about half an hour past noon.

When I reached the spot where the paths toward the two huts converge, I found another forked path. I decided to explore it instead of going back to the reception area. It looked like a mini forest. It was filled with bushes with long, skinny branches and tiny leaves, and the white sand was also filled with holes, which I guess were made by crabs. I walked around and found a beach. I laid down my backpack and the binoculars and sat on the sand. And with the inviting water in front me, guess what I did next.

Where Calm and Colors Meet

December 23, 2007


Lake Sebu, South Cotabato—I keep telling myself I have to come back here and explore again every natural nook and countryside cranny.

I cannot get enough of this place. We’re staying at Punta Isla Lake resort for several hours only and that time is never enough to savor everything the getaway has to offer. Add to that the dizziness in my head, courtesy of our previous night’s videoke-and-booze session, after my cousin’s wedding.

It doesn’t matter that I have not taken a bath. (When my cousins and I woke up, half of the party had packed up, so we had to wash our faces in a jiffy and rush to the vehicles.) The temperature of Lake Sebu ranges from cool to cold to chilly. You’ll only sweat if you run the hills or paddle a kayak across the lake.


The entrance fee at Punta Isla is only five pesos per head, and the clan or gang can rent a hut for a hundred.

A group of young T’bolis goes from cottage to cottage to entertain the guests. The presentation, lasting for about six minutes, is a sampler of indigenous music and dances.

Kids gleefully scamper away during the monkey dance, as a midget, covered in a black hairy costume, leaps out and clings to the posts of the cottage.

Gustatory Indulgence

The Lake Sebu experience is not complete without filling your belly with tilapia, the kind of fish the place is most known for. It’s prepared and cooked in various ways: grilled, chicharon or paksiw.

Grilling brings out the natural milky taste and color of tilapia. Dip it in soy sauce with lots of onion and tomato slices and you have the perfect pair for rice. When cooked as chicharon (dried and fried), tilapia satiates the palate like no other meat can. It’s far tastier—and healthier—than pork or chicken skin.

Only the choicest flesh of tilapia, on its back portion, is used for chicharon. The rest of the body parts are cooked as biting-to-the-taste paksiw.

If the fish feast leaves you craving for more (as you would likely be), try earning one kilogram of tilapia for free by accepting Punta Isla’s challenge: cross back and forth an 8-m bamboo pole perched horizontally a few feet above the lake.

On the Water

People go to Lake Sebu to see the lake (what else), so taking the boat tour is a must. A T’boli man, complete with a baby monkey clutching at his T’nalak upper garment, acts as our tour guide. He points for us the spots of interest around the lake and the islands that are bulging out the placid water.



I’ve heard tall tales about the lake, so I’m glad to learn from the guide that the lake’s depth is not unfathomable and that the deepest part is just 40 or 60 feet. (I’m not sure. Blame the lack of sleep and a few gulps of cheap wine and brandy for my memory lapse.)

You must have belted out dozens of songs in videoke in beer gardens or at parties—but probably not yet in a floating restaurant. That’s another unique experience you can enjoy at Punta Isla. At five pesos for two songs and inside a slightly swaying structure, crooning never feels this cool (or at least, as what I see in my cousins, since I don’t and can’t sing).

Cultural Experience

Of equal bounty to the lake is the culture of T’bolis. While the nature in Lake Sebu soothes the soul, the arts and crafts of the tribe give the place gaiety.

We slip away from Punta Isla for a while to visit the bling-bling shop and the museum nearby.

I expect most of the ethnic accessories to be in bawdy colors. Surprisingly, many are well-designed and subtly elegant. The shop, run by a women’s cooperative, has a wide selection of items—from tribal bracelets to bamboo flutes to throw pillows made of T’nalak weaving. The price of fashion accessories in the shop is as low as those peddled by some female locals in the streets.

In the museum, we bump into Mr. Dominador Ba-ay, my Community Development instructor at Notre Dame of Marbel University and former three-time vice mayor of Lake Sebu. His daughter owns the museum, which is designed like a typical T’boli hut, with the bamboo floor elevated a meter above the ground.

Mr. Ba-ay shows us the most interesting of the artifacts, including a 14th century china plate glazed with an image of a blue crab at the center and a kris thinly encrusted with dried blood. The double-edged, wavy-bladed sword, Mr. Ba-ay tells us, cannot be used for chopping wood, but it can chop six torsos in one swipe.

By this time, though, my phone’s battery has emptied. There are just so many I haven’t captured in the camera. And there’s just so much more to discover in Lake Sebu, the Tra-an Kini Falls for one.

When in a place where calm and colors meet, coming back is always an exciting idea.


P.S. The latest addition to Lake Sebu’s attractions is a zipline, said to be the highest in the Philippines.